Responsible Crafts Tourism in Kutch

‘I want to teach weaving to as many people as possible. I want to contribute to this craft and make it as popular as possible in the whole world. This is what I want.’

Dayalal Kudecha, SKV graduate, weaver-designer and teacher, Bhujodi, Kutch.

Weaving is just one of the many textile crafts of Kutch that form an important part of the cultural identity, economy and social life of the region and both the individual and collective maker and user. The many Kutchi villages, home to weavers, block printers, bandhani (tie-dye), batik artisans and embroiderers, have become popular destinations for visitors seeking to escape from busy city life or learn more about age-old craft practices. In the past craft was done for local clients on a part-time basis alongside agriculture, for ceremonial purposes, or in the case of embroidery for the woman’s dowry and to mark important rituals and life stages.

However, with the commercialisation of craft over recent decades, craft has become the sole form of income for many artisans, several of whom have found success selling to urban and global markets. Dayalal, quoted above, is one such artisan. He graduated from the design course at Somaiya Kala Vidya (SKV) in Kutch, in 2008, and the business course in 2014 (SKV is an education institution for traditional artisans in Kutch. Read more about it here). He is now permanent faculty, and runs a successful business designing and making high quality, natural dyed and hand-woven fashion accessories which he sells to markets all over the world. Dayalal teaches weaving abroad and at home, and is one of several successful weavers who receives regular visitors to his home-workshop in Bhujodi.

During high season, visitors come in hoards to Bhujodi as well as block printing village Ajrakhpur and other craft villages, some simply turning up on their doorstep without advance notice. This can be disruptive to artisans’ daily schedule, and when artisan’s work space is shared with their home space, can also be intrusive. Because the people of Kutch are naturally hospitable and welcome, they don’t turn visitors away. However, it is important for visitors and tourists to remember that they are visiting homes, not heritage sites, village replicas or centres erected specially for tourism.

Some artisans have come up with shrewd ways of managing visitors. The renowned master block printer Ismail Mohammed Khatri for example, has built a museum and demonstration centre separate to his home in Ajrakhpur village, east of Bhuj just off the main Bhuj – Ahmedabad highway.

Open studio craft tours

Another way of addressing the challenges of increasing numbers of visitors is by organising open studio tours, coordinated by SKV Founder Director Judy Frater. The tours provide visitors with the opportunity to visit graduates of the institute who are innovating within the traditional repertoire of their craft – in weaving, block printing and natural dyeing. They can also learn more about the art, and shop for high quality hand-crafted pieces that both embody the individual artisan-designer’s creativity and identity as well as that of the traditional craft community.

The tours of these artisan-designer’s studios give the visitor the opportunity to slow down and absorb the complexity and richness of these crafts, the techniques, history, designs and materials, as well as the diversity of contemporary designed craft. The tours are currently conducted in Bhujodi, a weaving village, and Ajrakhpur, a natural dyeing and block print village. Visitors are provided with a map locating the home/workplaces of participating artisan designers, have the opportunity to explore the by lanes of the village and join together to have lunch at the home of a designated artisan-designer.

Crafts courses and workshops

SKV also organises craft workshops and courses in handloom extra-weft weaving, hand block printing, batik block printing, bandhani (tie dye), and dyeing with synthetic and natural dyes. Embroidery in the various styles of different Kutchi communities can also be taught. Workshops can be one day, two days or five days, and a longer in-depth course of 22 days is also available.

The workshops and courses give textile enthusiasts, designers or students the opportunity to learn in more detail about the craft not only by observing but by doing – the best way to learn skills that are inherently embodied knowledge. As well as learning the techniques and processes in a structured way, students can get to know better the significance of craft as economic and creative activity for the artisans, as well as the ways in which the final objects express the maker’s identity and world view. The learning is not only one-way though: the artisan-designers get the opportunity to build upon teaching skills while also learning about the student’s own cultural background, design practice or other interests. The workshops and courses are either held on the SKV campus in Adipur, or in the workshop of an artisan. Along with the hands-on learning, sessions, lectures and discussions are organised for examining traditional pieces, learning about the use and significance behind particular designs and their history.

I have written about my experience learning weaving over 22 days in two previous blog posts, focusing particularly on the several processes involved in making a traditional Kutchi dhabla (blanket or shawl). In the pleasant late December/early January climate, I got to appreciate the in-depth knowledge and range of skills of traditional weavers, as well as the rhythms of the village, chat and socialise with my teachers and other weavers in the workshop, as well as with the other craft course students.

While traditional craft skills are at risk of decline, they are also increasing in value – as a therapeutic escape from the stresses of fast-paced modern life and a meaningful alternative to purchasing machine-made products from an unknown producer. Similarly, visitors to new places seek more meaningful experiences. Thus, the crafts courses in Kutch provide the perfect opportunity to combine a love of craft, art and skill with meeting new people and getting to know better a new place and its history, social life and culture.

Upcoming studio tour dates 2018-19

Bhujodi, Kutch: Oct 27, Nov 17, Dec 1, Jan 5, Feb 2, Mar 2

Ajrakhpur, Kutch: Oct 28, Nov 18, Dec 2, Jan 6, Feb 3, Mar 3

To find out more, and for dates of the workshops and courses and fees, find details on the website, or email: kalavidya@somaiya.edu